One of the greatest pleasures of island life is witnessing the early arrival of spring. Here on Whidbey Island in the Pacific Northwest, while much of the country remains in winter's grip, we're already welcoming ornamental cherry blossoms, cheerful daffodils, delicate crocuses, and fragrant hyacinths. This early celebration of the growing season is nature's invitation to begin planning and seeding for a summer filled with the beauty and joy of flowers.
As someone who has often mused that being a florist might be my calling in another life, I find that living well means being surrounded by flowers—sitting in my garden on warm summer evenings, watching the succession of blooms take their turn in the spotlight, and bringing freshly cut arrangements indoors to brighten our home.
For those of us gardening on a budget, starting annual flowers from seed offers tremendous rewards at minimal cost. With some simple equipment, a bit of knowledge, and a touch of patience, you can create a magnificent flower garden that will provide beauty and joy throughout the growing season.
The Magic of Starting Seeds Indoors
Starting seeds indoors extends your growing season significantly, giving you a head start on summer blooms. On Whidbey Island, our mild maritime climate provides certain advantages, but seeds started indoors will still produce flowers weeks earlier than those sown directly in the garden.
Essential Equipment for Seed Starting Success
You don't need expensive equipment to start seeds successfully. Here's my simple setup that produces reliable results year after year:
Heat pad for seed starting: Provides consistent bottom heat that encourages germination
Grow lights: Clip-on lights work perfectly for small-scale home operations
Seed starting trays: Plastic trays with individual cells and domes for humidity control
Seed starting soil: Lighter than garden soil and free of pathogens
Seedling pots: For transplanting once seedlings develop true leaves
I've created this seed-starting station in a tiny section of my pantry, utilizing a shelf with an east-facing window. Outside, I supplement with a small cold frame and a simple 4x4 greenhouse purchased online—proof that you don't need elaborate structures to grow beautiful flowers from seed.
The Seed Starting Process
Success in seed starting comes from attention to detail and creating the right environment for germination. Here's my tried-and-true process:
Fill the bottom of your seed tray with water. This allows you to water seedlings from below, which protects tender emerging sprouts and encourages roots to grow deeper.
Fill each cell in the tray ¾ of the way with seed starting soil.
Sprinkle seeds over the soil—I usually add a pinch per cell, knowing I can thin seedlings later.
Cover with a thin layer of additional soil.
Mist the top or gently add water to moisten the soil without disturbing the seeds.
Place the plastic dome cover over the seed tray to trap warmth and moisture from the heating pad.
Check your seed packets for expected germination times so you know when to start looking for sprouts.
Once seedlings emerge with one or more sets of true leaves (not the initial seed leaves), carefully transplant them into individual seedling pots. Place these pots on a warm windowsill and supplement with grow lights, especially during our often cloudy Pacific Northwest days.
Transitioning Seedlings to the Garden
The next steps depend on your setup. If you're fortunate enough to have a heated greenhouse, you can move seedlings there after a few weeks when they look sturdy. If you have a cold frame like mine, use it to "harden off" your seedlings—the process of gradually acclimating indoor-grown plants to outdoor conditions.
Hardening off is crucial for success. Even on our relatively mild Whidbey Island, the transition from indoor growing conditions to the garden can shock tender seedlings. I start by placing them in the cold frame for a few hours each day, gradually increasing exposure time over a week before transplanting them into the garden after all danger of frost has passed.
Deer-Resistant Flower Varieties for Whidbey Island Gardens
Anyone who gardens on Whidbey knows that our local deer population considers most gardens to be their personal salad bar. My selection of flowers is heavily influenced by what neighborhood deer will hopefully pass by. These recommended varieties not only resist deer browsing but thrive in our Pacific Northwest climate when started from seed.
Cosmos: Elegant Blooms All Season Long
Cosmos produce some of the most beautiful flowers in the cutting garden—white, pink, lilac, and deeper magenta blooms dancing atop fern-like foliage. Growing 3-4 feet tall, these graceful flowers sway in our island breezes and provide continuous blooms from early summer well into fall.
Cosmos seeds germinate quickly and seedlings grow rapidly, making them particularly rewarding for beginning seed-starters. They're also drought-tolerant once established, perfect for our increasingly dry summer months. For a cottage garden effect, plant cosmos in drifts rather than formal rows.
Snapdragons: Spires of Color and Charm
The variety of colors and forms available in snapdragons (Antirrhinum) is truly astonishing. Their distinctive dragon-mouth flowers clustered on tall spires create vertical interest in any garden. Modern varieties come in heights ranging from 6-inch dwarfs to 3-foot giants, in nearly every color except true blue.
Snapdragons last throughout summer, and if you deadhead them regularly (removing spent flowers), they'll reward you with a second flowering. Start snapdragon seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before your last frost date, as they're slow to germinate and develop.
Sweet Peas: Incomparable Fragrance
No flower matches the intoxicating fragrance of sweet peas. These climbing annuals produce waves of delicate blossoms perfect for cutting. In my garden, I've added a tripod to a large pot and strung twine for the vines to climb, creating a beautiful vertical display that doesn't take up much ground space.
Sweet pea seeds benefit from soaking overnight and nicking their hard seed coats before planting. They prefer cool weather, making them perfectly suited to our Whidbey Island climate. Start them indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost for the longest possible blooming season.
Nasturtiums: Jewel-Toned Cascades
There is indeed nothing more glorious than jewel-toned nasturtiums cascading down a wall or spilling over the edges of containers. Available in shades of yellow, orange, red, and cream, both the flowers and leaves of nasturtiums are edible, adding peppery brightness to summer salads.
Nasturtiums have large seeds that germinate easily, making them perfect for gardening with children. They prefer poor soil—too much fertility produces lush leaves but fewer flowers—making them ideal for those challenging spots in your garden.
Dwarf Dahlias: Reliable Color at the Border's Edge
While most dahlias are grown from tubers, dwarf varieties can be successfully grown from seed. These compact plants produce a profusion of blooms in a rainbow of colors, perfect for the front of a border where their 12-18 inch height won't block taller plants.
Dahlia seeds started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost will bloom their first season, unlike most perennial flowers grown from seed. They make excellent cut flowers and will continue blooming until the first frost if deadheaded regularly.
Verbena: Long-Lasting Color and Butterfly Attraction
Verbena produces clusters of small, brightly colored flowers on spreading plants that thrive in our island climate. The most popular varieties for garden use are verbena bonariensis, with its tall, airy structure, and trailing verbenas that spill beautifully from containers.
Besides adding color to your garden, verbena is a powerful attractor of butterflies, bringing additional life and movement. Start seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before your last frost date, as they can be slow to germinate.
Salvia: Dramatic Spikes in Jewel Tones
Salvias offer dramatic, spike-like flowers in shades of blue, purple, red, and white. These deer-resistant plants attract hummingbirds and beneficial insects while thriving in our Northwest summers. Annual varieties like salvia splendens (scarlet sage) and salvia farinacea (mealy cup sage) are easily grown from seed.
Start salvia seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Most varieties prefer full sun but will tolerate partial shade, especially during our hottest afternoons.
Additional Tips for Seed-Starting Success
Light Requirements for Strong Seedlings
One of the biggest challenges when starting seeds indoors is providing enough light. Even a sunny windowsill rarely provides sufficient light intensity for sturdy seedlings. Without adequate light, seedlings become leggy and weak.
I run my grow lights for 14-16 hours per day, positioning them just a few inches above the seedlings and raising them as the plants grow. This mimics the increasing day length of spring and produces stocky, robust plants.
Temperature Considerations
While seeds need warmth to germinate, most seedlings prefer cooler temperatures once they're growing. After germination, I maintain temperatures around 65-70°F during the day and slightly cooler at night. This prevents leggy growth and helps prepare plants for outdoor conditions.
Timing Your Seed Starting
Proper timing ensures your seedlings are ready for the garden when conditions are right. Here on Whidbey, our last frost typically occurs in early April, though it's wise to be prepared for unusual cold snaps.
As a general guideline:
10-12 weeks before last frost: Start snapdragons, verbena, petunias
8-10 weeks before last frost: Start sweet peas, salvias, dwarf dahlias
6-8 weeks before last frost: Start cosmos, zinnias
4-6 weeks before last frost: Start nasturtiums, sunflowers
Fertilizing Young Seedlings
Once seedlings develop their first true leaves, begin feeding them with a half-strength liquid organic fertilizer every two weeks. This provides necessary nutrients without the risk of burning tender roots. I prefer fish emulsion-based fertilizers for flowers, though the smell can be temporarily pungent indoors!
The Joy of Home-Grown Cut Flowers
One of the greatest rewards of growing flowers from seed is the abundance of blooms for cutting throughout the summer. Unlike store-bought flowers, which have often traveled thousands of miles and been treated with preservatives, your home-grown blooms will be fresher, more fragrant, and free of chemicals.
For the longest vase life:
Cut flowers in the early morning when they're hydrated
Use sharp, clean scissors or pruners
Place stems immediately in water
Remove any foliage that would be below the water line
Change vase water every other day
Conclusion: Seeds of Joy
A little effort and care in March and April yields magnificent rewards throughout summer and into fall. There's something deeply satisfying about nurturing tiny seeds into beautiful blooms—watching the miracle of growth unfold in your own space.
Starting flowers from seed connects us to the timeless cycle of growth and blooming that has brought joy to gardeners for generations. It's a form of optimism made tangible—a belief in future beauty during the quiet days of early spring.
For me, living well means surrounding myself with flowers that I've grown from seed, each bloom a small miracle and testament to patience. Whether you have acres or just a patio with containers, I encourage you to experience the special joy that comes from growing flowers from seed to bloom. Your Whidbey Island garden—and your spirit—will thank you.